You'll see them peeking out from behind the foliage, hundreds of them tucked into the nooks and crannies of the hillside: moss-covered sculptures of laughing Buddhas, bellies pregnant with contentment. Carved into the limestone of Feilai Feng between the 10th and 14th centuries, these ancient treasures have long lured visitors to Hangzhou.

The city's other big-ticket destination, Xi Hu, captured the heart of Marco Polo, who claimed "a voyage on this lake offers more refreshment and pleasure than any other experience on earth."