The moment you step foot in Oaxaca, your senses will be put on alert, piqued by bolts of color, flavor and aroma. Everything here is a little more vivid than anywhere else.

Barrels of grasshoppers dusted with ground chiles share space in open markets with butchers hanging cow heads on hooks. Old women lay pinkish, plucked chickens on terra cotta steps.

Beautiful hand-woven rugs hang next to black velvet blouses with orange and green embroidery.